It is not even full!

23.6.2008 At six in the morning the music stopped. We had been awake the whole night since the music was playing out loud through out the whole night. As soon as it stopped, we fell a sleep. An hour later we heard someone knocking on our door bringing us hot water in a bucket. We took the bucket in and tried to continue sleep. Ten minutes later they started to wash the place outside. There was no way to continue sleep so we decided to give up and got up.

We weren’t too disappointed since we had decided to leave the place in the morning. It was time to head to the jungle to see the chimpanzees. The Gombe Stream National Park is about 15 km North from Kigoma. Only way to get there is to take a boat. There is a possibility for a private boat ride which would cost 200 USD and which would take you over there in two hours. There is also a public “water-taxi” for 3 USD but it would take four hours. For us budget travellers the choice was clear.

We headed to the harbour knowing that the boat leaves from there sometime afternoon. We were there at noon. We found people who were happy to show us which boat it was and what time it would leave. They said it would leave at two. We decided to sit on the beach and wait while they started loading the boat with lots of sacks full of rice, washing powder, chalk, potatoes and what ever you can think of.

At two we were escorted to the boat. It was about three metre deep wooden boat which had a barely butt width wide side bar, on which people started to pile up. We left our bags on the floor and took our “seats”. During next hour more and more people came onboard. When I thought that the side bar was full later turned out that it had only been half-full since at least the same amount seemed to find a place between some people.

Another interesting thing was the way people came onboard. On the back by the motor, there was a “latter” for us disabled to get in. Most seem to find another way. People were coming from neighbouring boats. Some handed over their luggage, some their children. No matter what or who was coming but that I can say that all safety issues were not considered.

At three we were moving. We were the only white people on board so as much as we were enjoying watching others, I am sure they enjoyed watching us. It was amazing hot day. I was thinking life could not get any better.

We had “sailed” for thirty minutes when things started changing. Person next to me bent over the side and started feeling sick. I knew that if I just smelled the puke, I would throw up right away. But no, the girl seemed to know how to do it without bothering others.

Few minutes later the lady on our other side started feeling sick. Same thing. She bent over the side and started puking. After a while every other person seemed to be feeling sick. It was so unbelievable that I didn’t even realise that it could happen to us also. Fortunately it didn’t.

Next few hours we were just enjoying the ride and watching others feeling sick or taking it cool. The amazing thing was the way they handled the trip and feeling sick. The boat was full but still people slept on the sides. My opinion was that there was no room to sleep but they seemed to find a way to do it anyway.

Another thing that amazes me was how they do everyday things without minding where they are, especially the mothers with their children. I have been here for five months and still I stop to wonder how mothers breast feed their children anywhere and everywhere. And they breast feed until their children are quite old. I have always thought that when a kid knows how to ask for it, it means it is time to stop breast. It does not apply here.

After a four hours one of the crew members waved at us. It was time to hop off the boat for Mzungus. We saw a little peer (one wooden cross bar) with a sign saying Gombe National Park. We were relieved. But as soon as we were closer to the shore a man on the beach started waving at us not to get closer. So the boat turned around and we kept on sailing. We didn’t know what to think. We just hoped that they would take us somewhere where we could sleep.

Thirty minutes later we saw another “peer”. This time there was a smiling lady waiting at the shore. We pulled in and jumped out of the boat. By the way, there was no way of getting to the shore with dry feet.

The lady welcomed us and we walked to the only house by the beach. It turned out to be a five room (one bed in each) guesthouse. We were the only guests. We chose our rooms, made plans for dinnertime and decided to take it easy for next day’s adventure. It was also a perfect time for dip in the world’s deepest and longest lake, Lake Tanganyika.

We enjoyed swimming and lying in the sun. An hour later four young American Piece Corp workers turned up. They were fun to be with so we ended up having a great night just chatting and sharing the experiences in the country.

Another amazing day was over. We had found a perfect guesthouse, travelled on a local way – cheap I might add – and were watching the sunset by the Lake Tanganyika in a peaceful surrounding in the middle of a jungle. Life couldn’t get any better!

22.6.2008 The second stop on our way around the country was Kigoma, the regional capital of western Tanzania. There are not many tourists on this side of the country unless they are coming to see the chimpanzees. It is not hard to believe since our trip by bus was the way it was.

Kigoma is also the centre of all aid organisations since most of the refugee camps are on the western side of the country. It is easy to believe since every other car had a logo of some aid organisation on the door.

Our reason for visiting the place was purely to see the chimpanzees and to follow the foot steps of Dr. Livingstone. I had been here before so I knew it was worth a visit.

The first day we dedicated for Dr. Livingstone and the Ujiji village. We took a daladala to the village and started wandering around. We walked for two hours and enjoyed the atmosphere of local fishing village. After a long search we found our way to the beach where we spent some time watching locals enjoy their Sunday. Some were washing their laundry, some washing themselves and rest just hanging out and taking it slow.

From the beach we headed to the “famous” Livingstone monument. That is the place where Livingstone spent lot of time and the famous encounter between Dr. Livingstone and Stanley occurred under two mango trees. “Dr. Livingstone, I presume!”

We took a daladala back to town, headed to a juice bar, had a nice dinner of fish and rice, and headed back to the hotel for a good night sleep – or so we thought.

21.6.2008 “Roads to Kigoma are rough, and the security situation ebbs and flows, so think twice before travelling there by bus. Some roads, especially from Lusahunga to Kasulu, may require an armed escort if you will be driving.” 

If this is what they are saying in all travel guides, you should be smart enough to realise that things are probably not going the way you plan.

There was no direct bus from Bukoba to Kigoma (700 km) so we had bought a ticket to Nyakanazi (one third of the trip) in hope to catch connecting bus from there. The bus left Bukoba at 5:30 am.

The bus was one of those rainbow coloured buses which are a regular site on the road sides, usually broken. We travelled in the dark the first two hours which was probably good since we knew that we were really speeding and the road was in such a condition that there was no way that it was safe in any way.

After a while the road got even worse and we slowed down a bit. The seats were terrible but we knew that it was still the beginning of our long trip so we knew we shouldn’t start complaining yet. We handled it well.

At eleven the bus stopped for 30 seconds to literally throw us out. There we were, in the middle of nowhere, thinking how to get another bus, to continue towards Kigoma. We asked some locals and they pointed to a direction of some other people. We walked over and realised that these were other people waiting for a bus also. We were relieved.

We had been sitting in a bus for six hours already so we used this opportunity to use the “toilet”. I run first behind the corner while my friend waited with our luggage. Then it was her turn. We were happy to be back together since we didn’t have any idea when the bus was coming.

An hour later a guy showed up and we asked about the tickets. He said that there was a bus coming in 20 minutes and we could buy the tickets from him. He said the price and wrote the tickets for us. I noticed that he was over-charging us and noted. He laughed and wrote new tickets. They always try that with us Mzungus. You really have to know the price if you want to pay the correct amount. Other wise be ready to pay for the double.

We were relieved since things seemed to be ok. Half an hour later a bus arrived. Already from far distance it was obvious that there was no room in that bus. People were hanging from the windows and from the door. Ten minutes later the bus was gone and we were still standing on the road side.

I was getting a bit worried. We had no idea if there was another bus coming, and if there was, would that had any more room than the previous one. The locals didn’t seem to worry. They just sat and waited. I have to say that I admire their patience. I cannot think of anyone I know back home who would have that kind of patience. These guys are amazing. Time has no meaning. Waiting is normal and it doesn’t seem to be a problem for them. If the bus doesn’t come today, it will come some other day.

We waited for an hour. Some trucks and some private cars drove by. One car stopped and some people run to it. After a short conversation they all pulled out with lots of luggage on the top of the car. It didn’t take long for us to realise that that was the only way out of here. We needed to find someone to take us along.

First car that stopped was full of Mzungus. We thought it was our lucky day, but no. They said that they could not take any more passengers. Their car was already full. Well, yes all the seats were full but in local standards there was still room for at least four people. We couldn’t convince them and they left.

The second try was a pick up truck with room in the back seat plus on the back. I tried my best to negotiate with the driver but his passenger was not keen on having anyone with her in the car. I suggested that we could even sit in the back but they didn’t take us.

After waiting for three hours I was loosing the hope. When ever a car stopped people run around it and fought over the chance to talk to the driver. I knew I had to get into that battle.

When the next car pulled over I knew it was now or never. I used my elbows to get to the driver. I said there are two Mzungus who need to go to Kigoma and are ready to pay for the ride. He thought over a second, counted his chances, and decided to take us two plus the three mamas who had been quite noisy and determined. Boy, was I relieved.

The car was a really nice Nissan 4WD. It had two rows of seats in the back and lots of room on the top for luggage. The car seemed to belong to a family of mother and a father and their two kids. There was another man travelling with them who we decided must have been the brother of the mother.

It took twenty minutes to load the entire luggage on the roof. The luggage was attached with some ropes but I wasn’t confident that they would make it to Kigoma. After all the trip was more than 500 km on a rough, bumpy dirt road and I knew we weren’t going to drive slowly. I had no choice but trust that we would all arrive safely.

Two of the mamas took the back seat. Me and my friend took the middle seat. The guy who we had named uncle took the seat by me and I took the other kid on my lap. Soon we all realised that there was still one more big mama who had to get in. After a short negotiations uncle was sent to back seat to share the seat with two other big mamas and the third big mama was to sit with us on the mid-seats. We knew we were in trouble but the choice was to fit in or stay out in the sun and wait for a bus which would possibly come some day in near future.

We started the trip. The road was bumpy and there was dust every where. Mother had the baby in the front seat. It was terribly hot day. The father and the mother kept opening the windows every now and then to give us fresh air but every time they did that, the dust came in and we were coughing. So most of the time we kept the windows closed and suffered from the heat.

Next four hours we remained almost totally quiet. I think we were all suffering but decided not to show any signs on it. The mamas had a conversation going on but acted like they were used to this kind of travelling. To tell you the truth, I think this was like travelling in the first class to them. To us it was pure hell. We were sweaty, dusty, hungry, and thirsty and it was crowded. The kid sat on my lap which made me feel even hotter. I have to say though that from any kids around the world this was the one I would take on my lap. He didn’t complain a bit. He sat still and quiet all the way to our first stop. I don’t know if it was because he was scared of sitting on Mzungus lap or because the kids in this country are so much more well-behaving that the white kids. These kids never cry or whine over anything.

We made it to Kibondo. The mamas stepped out of the car while we stretched our legs for two minutes outside. Three minutes later we were back on the road again.

We kept on driving fast. The driver was driving like he knew what he was doing but still it seemed that he was running against the time. We flew over ditches and potholes hitting every other hole quite hard. There was no way that we could close our eyes and stay on our seats on that ride.

After few hours we caught the bus that we had tickets for. It was still full. We carefully made a joke about staying there and ask to get in since we still had the tickets. We decided to continue with our new friends.

Next interesting encounter was the truck which had gotten stuck in an uphill. We could barely pass it since we had the 4 WD but there was no way for that bus behind us to get by. We knew that they would stop there for god knows how long, maybe a day or two.

Next eye-opener was another bus which had broken down on the road. All passengers were outside with their luggage trying to get a lift from passing vehicles. And there weren’t many of them. My friend and I looked at each other and knew each others thoughts. We could only imagine what if that had happened to us. There we would be sitting in the ditch with our luggage, waiting for a ride, which would never come. We could only imagine the horror of spending a night in that ditch in the middle of nowhere with our fellow passengers who seemed to take it like normal thing. And I am sure all the mosquitoes would be eating just us.

After sitting six hours still with a kid on my lap, I didn’t have any blood circulation in my body anymore. We hadn’t talked for a long while since everyone was sensing the tiredness. We were exhausted but the feeling of knowing “what if” kept us alive.

At 8.30 pm. we saw the lights of the Kigoma city and thought that we had made it. Of course at that point we didn’t know if the family was going to take us all the way to town to find a guesthouse but we kept on thinking that things would be ok.

The last heart-stopper was a stop just before entering the Kigoma region. We saw a shimmering light from distance and the driver stopped immediately. I saw how serious he turned so I knew it wasn’t going to be anything good. Then they talked to each other in Swahili. I didn’t understand everything but I could understand that they were talking about what kind of weapons they had with each other. Driver said that he had his panga (jungle knife) nearby while the mother said that she had her stiletto. I got a bit scared. I knew what they were saying but I didn’t want to translate it to my friend. She saw the worry in my eyes but kept quiet. We knew that if that was an ambush we were their best negotiation tools.

We started driving closer. Two men were on the side and we stopped. The driver asked if they knew what was ahead of us. We all exhaled together when we heard that it was only a truck which had fallen over. There was enough room for us to drive by. And so we did.

Last 30 minutes we drove in the dark and made it to the city safe and sound. The driver dropped the family off before taking us to town. At nine we had checked in to a nice motel I had spotted from the last visit in town. We were more than relieved. We were happy to pay the asked 50 000 Tsh (50 USD) what they asked for from the ride, knowing that they were over-charging us, but at the same time knowing that it was a very small price for the trip which could have turned out in totally opposite way. We had travelled “comfortably”, safely, and fast all the way from Bukoba. The trip had taken 16 hours, and we were dead tired, hungry, thirsty and dirty from the red dust which had covered us from top to bottom. On the other hand we were alive. We were only thinking that there were many other possibilities which could have appeared. We could still be sitting in that road side waiting for a bus to come, we could be in that bus which we had tickets for but which would be stuck in that hill behind the truck which was stuck. We could be sitting on the road side in the middle of the nowhere beside that other bus which had broken down in half way. And even if there was a bus which would have made it around that truck and without breaking down, it would have never made it to Kigoma during that same day, and we would not be in such a shape as we were at the moment. We would have been twice as tired, aching, hungry, angry and dirty as we were. Honestly I don’t think I would have been sane anymore.

We took showers and tried to get the dust away from us without succeeding. We were coughing the red dust but we decided to go out to get something to eat. We had a double order of greasy chips with eggs. And to tell you the truth I don’t think I have ever enjoyed food as much as I did at that moment.

Today was quite a day. I cannot help but wonder that what if!

20.6.2008 Bukoba is a nice town north-western side of Lake Victoria. There are few ways to get there but the most comfortable is to take an overnight boat from Mwanza.

We came to Bukoba by boat Victoria which arrived at six in the morning. We walked to the nearest hotel and asked for a room. Ten minutes later we were continuing our sleep in a very nice room.

I had been feeling sick all night so after two hour sleep we decided to go to a medical clinic to get me tested for malaria. I was feeling just like I had been feeling earlier when I had malaria.

Another interesting visit to a local medical clinic. It was a one room office which had a bench, removable wall dividing a laboratory (read microscope on the table) and the reception (read desk and a lady sitting behind it) on one side. I sat down while the lady pulled a clean needle from a sack. One pinch on my finger and waiting for the results. No malaria!

We decided to go for a walk around town. Bukoba is a very nice town with very nice people. One of my students lives here so we made plans to meet later that night. While waiting for the “date” we met another volunteer worker who was stationed in Bukoba. She is working for an orphanage programme. So the first day was more or less enjoying and relaxing with two local friends.

The second day in Bukoba was even hotter than the first. We had slept over 11 hours so we had enough energy to go for a long walk along the shore line. We walked for two hours through some amazing villages and finally stopped on a deserted beach. There was nobody around. We sat on the beach for two hours just staring at the Lake which looked so tempting. Unfortunately the water on the Lake Victoria is contaminated. Fortunately the wind was blowing so we could handle the heat without going into water. Six hours later we were back at the hotel bar at the beach having drinks which we had earned with walking all morning. Life is so tough here in the tropics.

Later that night we were invited to my student’s home for dinner. We knew that they were a poor family so we decided to buy something for them. We decided to buy a chicken and a kanga for the mother of the house. I don’t get to do that back home so I had to take advantage of the situation. Not like I was going to touch it though. Someone else had to carry the live chicken to the house.

We walked to their house with the live chicken and the kanga. I have to say that it was a great idea after seeing the face of the mother. She was so impressed. Well, I was proud of our decision.

The house was quite nice considering the circumstances. It had two bedrooms, living room and little kitchen. Parents were around their 50’s but seemed to look older than they really were. Mother didn’t speak any English but father tried to keep the conversation going. Two of their daughters still lived in the house but how many kids they had in total is still a mystery for us. We know that there were more children for the father than the mother but how many and for who stayed unknown.

My student was in charge of the cooking. She had prepared a nice meal for us. The meat was bad as usual here in Tanzania but the rest were eatable. I think we managed to confirm them that we liked the meal. I think we are getting better day by day. By the end of this year I think I will be quite a good liar.

The third and the last day in Bukoba was more or less enjoyable. Like we hadn’t enjoyed so far. I think we have enjoyed every day but days just keep on getting better.

We had another long walk in town. This time we headed up on the hill were the scenery was spectacular over the Lake Victoria. It was well worth the visit.

Since it was our last day in Bukoba we wanted to take our friend, my student out to dinner. Coincidentally it was her birthday so we had a good reason to celebrate, moreover I had had my birthday few days earlier.

We decided to eat at our hotel since it was famous of its pepper steaks. I haven’t had a real stake since I arrived so in five months. I was really looking forward to it. We ordered three pepper steaks. They told us that it would take an hour so we decided to go to our room to watch some TV and chat. An hour later they called us that they had no pepper steak and asked if we could choose something else. We couldn’t do anything but laugh. It was so Tanzanian. It had taken an hour to realise that they didn’t have steaks. Now we had to wait another hour to wait for our chicken.

An hour later we were sitting on the dinner table with chickens on our plates. Just when we were starting to eat the power went off. What can I say; we had a memorable birthday dinner in the dark. Fortunately the chicken was good – this time!

17.6.2008 Today is my birthday. I know I am old now, so please don’t remind me.

Today is also the five month anniversary for my stay in Tanzania. What would be a better present than getting a working permit and visa? Nothing! I had a good feeling so I left to the immigration. Those who have followed my blog know that I have had some problems with getting my papers ready. Yes, I have been here for five months and yes, I have been working all this time but for one reason or another my papers have not been processed before today.

Now I finally have a working permit and a visa. I don’t have to continue as an illegal citizen. I actually haven’t been illegal; I just haven’t had a visa since now. I have visited the immigration office weekly so everyone there knows me. I even know their daily schedule and the family of the lady who has handled my papers. I don’t think I know anyone here in Tanzania that well. Anyway, since they knew me they had decided to let me stay in the country until I get the papers sorted out. How generous of them since it has mainly been their fault, not mine.

After receiving all the papers my friend and I decided to leave the place the same night. We bought a ferry ticket to Bukoba. The boat was to leave at night so we had four more hours to pack our bags and leave.

Few hours later we were sailing on a Silja Line wanna-be boat on Lake Victoria. We had bought first class tickets which meant that we had a cabin just for two of us. I wanted to travel in the third class to experience the real life of Tanzania but my friend insisted on going to the first class. Afterwards I have to admit that it was a right decision since I had some kind of reaction from the dinner and needed to visit the toilet quite often.

Other wise the trip by boat was a nice experience. There wasn’t much to do since there was just one restaurant on board. We enjoyed the moonlight sailing for an hour and then spent the rest of the night in our cabin. Cabins were clean but the walls weren’t thick. We had some noisy neighbours and the boat came to ashore at four, other than that we enjoyed the trip.

I will make an exception. I have a friend Pirjo from Finland visiting me here in Tanzania. She will be here for a month. She has two weeks left so it is time to hear how she feels about her trip.

A whole new world

Two weeks in Tanzania with a good friend as a host have been an eye opening time with many experiences. The past weeks have been just enough to learn some basic greetings in Swahili (which is extremely important in a country that puts great emphasis on greeting people well and long), make new friends and to get a first insight into the culture and way of life.

Here are some of my first impressions/observations about Tanzania and its people:

Tanzanians are extremely hospital people. Just walk along the road is followed by many greetings and welcomes to the country/village by strangers. People who you have already met and introduced to there is no way of passing without handshakes and greetings. Everywhere you go you are welcomed with a smile and if able to greet even with one Swahili way the smile just gets much wider. New Friends might lead you to experiences you could have never waited for.

Tanzania is a country full of wonderful culture that people are proud of and willing to share with visitors.

Tanzanians do not stress over little things, Hamna shida (no worry) is commonly used and meant in various situations. Many people have very little, yet they seem to enjoy life and ask for no more.

There is no hurry in Africa. The concept of time is very different from the one at home. Yet everything that needs to be done gets done. So why to hurry and stress? This too is something that I should keep in mind when back at home, running from place to place.

The nature of the country is absolutely beautiful, even when it’s dry as it has been! Serengeti National park is something that no words can describe. European zoos altogether couldn’t host the variety of living creatures in this country. I hope Tanzania keeps on conserving the close to 12 National Parks they have established.

From the professional point of view the Education system is very interesting. It’s nice to see the children volunteeringly going to school even during school holiday (even though they have been advised to get review). I can only admire the concentration and the motivation of the kids studying in the huge classes with very few books and other materials. I will never again complain about the big class sizes in Finland after visiting the class of 103 pupils!

Travelling even in a small scale in an adventure; the means of travelling (daladalas, bikes, taxis, ferries, and 4WD cars) and the conditions of roads vary a lot, but never give you a dull travel.

I guess one could spend years in this country and still face something new every day, every morning brings a new day with new experiences.

14.6.2008 It was time to collect the harvest. Week earlier we had arranged ourselves a visit to a traditional Sukuma gathering. Sukuma is the majoring tribe in Mwanza region. It is also the biggest tribe in the country. In order to get a chance like this we had visited one teacher’s house, used their hospitality and been guests to a church fundraising week before. If you ask me, we had worked hard to get this opportunity.

There were two Mzungus, me and my friend from Finland who were going. Then we had invited some of our local friends to join us knowing that we would have to pay for their costs. The word had gotten out so there were also five other Europeans interested to join us. Of course we welcomed them along. All together we were group of 12 people.

Short note about these other Europeans, Germans; they were very nice people but I don’t think I have ever seen anyone as conscious about their money as they were - and I thought I was bad. I wish we hadn’t invited them but we did.

We took a daladala to town. While waiting for the group to get bigger we had some juice in a local bar. Juice, by the way, is the best thing in this country. It is always fresh and homemade. I will miss that when I go home.

At two we were all ready. We hired a private daladala and rode to Bujora, about 30 minutes out of town. We were taken to a museum where we joined an American family for an hour tour around the place.

The world is small. This American family was from Pennsylvania, close to where I was an exchange student 15 years ago. They knew Corning well and had worked there at some point also.

The tour around the museum was an interesting introduction for our next event. Then we were escorted to a house where lots of people had gathered to see what was going on. While time passed more people came to see what was going on. To tell you the truth, I think they came to see us rather than the show.

It was amazing. Group of 12 people; men and women, one girl and a boy, gave us a spectacular show. The costumes, the facial expressions and of course the movements of their hips were something that I don’t think any Mzungu could ever copy. We were speechless. The show took almost two hours. We were the guest of honours but I think the whole village joined us at some point. I was again amazed by the hospitality of Tanzanians. I love these people.

What made today special was the fact that we shared the day with our friends. They enjoyed it too. To see their faces and appreciation was worth the money I had to pay. I have always thought that money can’t buy you happiness. In some extend I disagree. These people can’t afford to have such a day we had today. In Western standards it didn’t cost anything but seeing how much they enjoyed, it was worth every penny.

We came home at ten after a great day. We were dead tired but nobody seemed to mind the walk in the dark from the junction (approximately 2 km). We were all so happy to be together. This is one of those days I will always remember.

13.6.2008 It was time to go back to jungle. Mwanza is close to the Western border of Serengeti. It would be foolish to pass the opportunity to see the animals, especially now that it is time for migration – all wildebeest and zebras are on this side.

We did you homework and found the best deal for our trip to Serengeti – or so we thought. I think we learned today that cheapest is not always the best, whatever they promise you. Soon we found ourselves in a car with non-English speaker who knew nothing about the animals. There was nothing we could do, so we decided to just enjoy the ride and make up all the stories by ourselves on the way. Although I have to say that we didn’t do as bad as some other friends we met on the way. Their car had broken down three times, they didn’t have any reservations in the lodge they were staying and their group had some troublemakers who made others suffer.

Despite the minor problems with our driver we had a spectacular trip. This was the second visit for me to Serengeti but first for my friend so fortunately I could give her the basic facts that I had learned from my previous visit.

We spent two days in Serengeti. During my first visit I had stayed in a tent but this time we decided to stay in a lodge. It was a great decision. The place was great and the food they served was delicious. I think we ate more than we paid for the trip itself.

During the 48 hours we spotted thousands of wildebeests and zebras, hundreds of gazelles: Thompson, Impalas, dig-digs and Topis, and lots of elephants, hippos, warthogs, buffaloes, crocodiles and giraffes. We even saw tens of lions in very close distance. Not so exciting animals included hyenas, jackals, waterbucks, hyraxes, baboons, and many different kinds of monkeys, and of course plenty of different kinds of birds which I can’t name. Out of the famous big five we were missing the rhino and the leopard. We didn’t care. We thought we had a successful trip anyway.

The most exciting incident occurred on the way back. It was getting dark, and we had a flat tire. We had to get out of the car to wait the driver to change the tire. We didn’t feel very confident waiting outside when we knew that there were lions and other interested eyes staring at us. My friend and I decided to work as a team. She looked the other way and I looked the other. Afterwards we laughed quite hard when realising that there wouldn’t have been a lot we could have done if the lion had attacked. All we could have done was to run but I have a feeling that we would have lost that battle anyway.

We made it home after a very tiring safari. Our faces were full of dirt but under the dirt there were two smiling faces underneath. We were very satisfied with our trip. After all I had had a hot shower and the best buffet dinner after five months. On top of that we had seen the beauty of the Serengeti National Park which is something that you can not describe. You have to come and see it yourself.

8.6.2008 Sunday was supposed to be a rest day but instead turned out to be full “work day”. We left the house trying to make it to town. On the way we decided to visit a friend who was supposed to know about the local dance ceremony which was going on. We were interested in attending but didn’t know how to get there.

We entered a house and were immediately sucked in by their hospitality. The man was around his 60’s and seems to prefer speaking Swahili instead of English. I tried my best to keep the conversation going. After a long introduction we got into business. He asked how much money we were ready to pay. I asked what we would get with the money. It didn’t go anywhere. We finally reached an understanding and seemed to have a plan of visiting the dance the following week.

After hard negotiations we thought that we could leave. There is no such a thing in Tanzania. You always have to eat with the family when visiting them. We looked at each other and knew that there was no way to escape.

The food was brought onto the table. No surprises for me. I was just thinking that how will my friend react. She seemed to be ok. The menu was like always, ugali (maize dish), beans and meat with lots of surprises inside. There were also some green things which you can call vegetables also on the table.

We took very little of everything which I could sense right from the beginning that would mean more trouble for us ahead. They noted it and a minute added at least a double of everything on our plates. Now we knew we were in trouble.

We started eating, with our hands. There was some water but I knew it was from the tab so I tried to avoid it. Keeping the conversation going and at the same time trying to swallow food piece by piece felt like forever. I didn’t think that I could ever finish it. Just when we thought that we had succeeded to empty the plates, they put some ground nuts and some other nature’s wonders on the plates. I was crying inside. It was happening to me again. My first three months in Africa was coming back to me. Just when I knew I could finally decide what to eat here.

We stayed almost two hours at the house. They showed us the house and introduced us to the whole family. Of course we were impressed by their hospitality but sometimes I just wish that the Africans weren’t so hospitable.

We thanked them and were trying to head out. The old man said that he was going to some ceremony and wanted us to go with him. We said that we weren’t properly dressed and we would need to head back home. He wasn’t taking a no for an answer.

Half an hour later, we were in some Catholic Church ceremony sitting in the VIP table with a priest and other important local people facing a crowd of 150 locals. The nightmare started all over.

During the next three hours we sat and listened different kinds of speeches, choir songs, presentations and performances. We were on the stage and there was no way to escape, not even to bathroom.

Later we saw that there was a possibility to leave just before the serving of the food. A BIG mistake. Our intension was noticed and even the master of the ceremony shouted it through the microphone that Europeans are always in a hurry. It is time to teach them that there is no hurry in Africa. So we ended up staying for the supper.

Ugali, pilau, meet, chicken, beans and “vegetables”. What else can you ask for? The only difference for the earlier eating was that now we were facing close to 200 people who liked staring at us when how we managed to eat.

Leaving the house at ten in order to get to town turned out to be six hours of very interesting something else. I was so tired of the African hospitality, smiling and being stared at that I suggested that we would go to town and visit the “Mzungu restaurant” where there were no locals around. I needed to escape from this world and it was worth it.

The day was interesting and different. To me it was like a flash back to my first three months. Always full of surprises. I could have passed the surprises but to my friend it was the best way to get right inside of the culture. There is no hurry in Africa. And never ever, in any circumstances think that you can leave the place without accepting their hospitality. So get prepared to eat – no matter what it is!

7.6.2008 While waiting for my own wedding day to arrive, we attended a local wedding. Two of the college tutors got married and we were invited. We were excited to attend. After all it was my first Tanzanian wedding.

We were picked up from the college gate at six. There were close to 50 people going and only three daladalas. Well, that didn’t slow us down. No matter if you were the principal or just a cook we all stuffed ourselves into those daladalas and off we went.

An hour later we arrived in a hotel. It was beautiful. It was already dark outside and the place was decorated with lots of lights. It reminded me of American Christmas since there were so many colourful lights on the walls.

Our invitations were checked twice. There was lot of outsiders who would have wanted to join if an opportunity rose.

We took our seats on the right side. They had arranged seats so that the guests were facing forward straight to the wedding couple’s seats while bride’s family had seats on the right and groom on the left both facing each other. In the middle there was an empty space which acted as a stage.

We waited two hours but weren’t surprised. It is not a real African wedding if it starts on time. While waiting we enjoyed the atmosphere and admiring the beautiful dresses and head pieces women wore.

Later we found out that the reason for the long wait was that the person who is in charge of the ceremony had not arrived. The master of the ceremony was missing. Finally they decided to start without him.

It all started with the couple walking in. Everyone stood and made different kind of noises which reminded me of old Indian movies. Then the couple sat down and introductions started. First there were some speeches and then some introductions.

To get married there are three different parties to organise. About a week before the church ceremony, there is a kitchen party. In a kitchen party only women attend. That is the time to teach the future wife about how to cook, take care of the house and how to treat the future husband. That is how women learn how to be wives.

The second stage is the send off party. That is usually for both women and men. Husband’s side sits on one side of the house while wife’s side sits on the opposite. There is some gift exchange involved.

The real ceremony can be arranged in a church depending on couple’s religious beliefs. Afterwards is the reception where most of the guests are invited to. That was the case for us also.

The ceremony was interesting. After cake cutting everyone danced their way to the couple to congratulate them. And I literally mean dance their way. Even we did that.

Then started the gift giving. First was the groom’s side. The whole family, close to thirty people, stood up and danced their way to the couple. Then was bride’s sides turn. They danced their way. It seemed to be like a battle, who gives the best gifts.

Finally it was the Butimba College staff’s turn. So we danced our way to the couple. I think everyone was amused at that time. It helped that we went there from wrong direction while they tried to show us the correct way. Anyway, being Mzungu has some advantages. We get away with all mistakes. They are laughing at us in any case.

After the gifts it was time to eat. There wasn’t enough food or drinks but we had a plate full of something. No forks, no spoons. I had rice and meat and some sauce. After the hand washing ritual we started eating. I have to say that I am getting so good at this that maybe I will stop using forks and spoons when I get home. After all it leaves fewer dishes to wash this way anyway.

After eating, people started to feel more and more relaxed. The couple danced their wedding dance and then everyone was invited to join in. The music was horrible, and not just in our opinion, people didn’t join the wedding couple. We were all waiting for the better music to start until we heard it was time to leave.

The wedding was a great experience. I am glad we attended. I am sorry for the couple about the missing Master of the Ceremony. It seemed to ruin lot of things like the order of things and the choice of music. In spite of that people seemed to have fun. Only weird thing about the wedding was that the bride never looked happy. I was told that weddings are always sad for the bride because that is the time for her to leave the family, but it can’t be that sad. The bride looked like there was no interest at all getting married to this fellow. Well, she was pregnant; therefore it is hard to say if it was a love marriage or a baby marriage. Which ever, I think it would be good to enjoy the day in any case.

We got home after midnight. I think we did ok. We didn’t make too fool of ourselves. Of course we had brought some extra amusement to all by joining the locals for the dance and eating with our hands while everyone was watching us but other than that you could say that we did blend in. If I ever get married that is the way I want to do it!